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Kryolan

Fashionably Kryolan

November 21st, 2018

November 21st, 2018

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Rohmir

Rohmir

Each season Kryolan is the official makeup sponsor of Fashion Scout, one of the UK’s largest fashion showcases which operates during London Fashion Week, meaning there’s a whole host of shows to design and prep – quite a task.  We caught five minutes with Paul Merchant, Kryolan’s Global Head of Makeup to discover how he keeps all the balls in the air at once.

Paul at work

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Swedish School of Textiles

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Marlon Breton

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Marlon Breton

WP:  How many shows did you work on for the season’s Fashion Scout?

PM:  As Kryolan are the official make-up sponsor for Fashion Scout at London Fashion Week, we cover all 26 shows that are showcased.  We use our International Pro Team as well as freelance artists such as Lan Nguyen to key shows.  Personally, this season I keyed six shows.

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Jiri Kalfar

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Jiri Kalfar

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Jiri Kalfar

WP:  What were the briefs and how did you interpret them?

PM:  This is always the most interesting part of Fashion Week for me.  Each designer will have a completely different approach to their briefs or ideas when it comes to make-up.  Some have a very clear idea of the direction they want to go in and others are reliant on your interpretations of the collection.  Usually I will start with the visuals provided on their moodboards and then study their collections, I try to find a synergy between the two.  Something that makes sense to me and the designer.  This season that was a lot of graphic elements referenced with a key focus on polished natural skin.

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Pam Hogg

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Pam Hogg

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Pam Hogg

WP:  What are the strongest trends this season?

PM:  While the skin widely is remaining fresh and polished, experimental elements are a strong focus for Spring Summer 19.  A sense of fun with glitter lips or strong free spirted eye make-up applications.  Pastels are important for the eyes with clashing vibrant acid tones.

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Dubai Design and Fashion Council

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Dubai Design and Fashion Council

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Dubai Design and Fashion Council

WP:  Which was the largest show – how many models and how many in your team?

PM:  The largest of the shows I keyed this season was INIFD, there were two shows with around 26 models in each.  I had a team of 10 artists on this.

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Inifd

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INIFD

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INIFD

WP:  What products were used on each show?

PM:  There were literally hundreds, but a few particular products tended to be extremely popular this season.  Pure Pigments Metallic, HD Cream Liner, Shimmering Event Foundation, Lip N Cheek, Lip Stain and Holographic Pigments.

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WP:  Which look was your favourite?

PM:  It’s a hard question to answer as you put your all in to each design, so they all become a favourite for different reasons or specific elements.  FJU, Simon Mo, Anissa Aida and DDFC stand out for me.

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All photography courtesy of James Basire

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By Emma Rutherford

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