March 20th, 2018
Kryolan returned to the runways this London Fashion Week once again partnering with Fashion Scout SS18 to bring a selection of innovative UK and international designers to the catwalks. Head makeup artist, Lan Nguyen-Grealis and her team used Kryolan products to create looks for over 20 shows and presentations.
Supplying the film, theatre and TV industries for over 70 years, Kryolan is one of the oldest pro brands in the world and their extensive range of more than 16,000 high quality make-up products and accessories plays an integral role in the kits of many a pro artists.
Commenting on the association, Nadine Langer, Head of Marketing at Kryolan, says, “Fashion Scout each season showcases a whole generation of emerging designers and Kryolan is proud to support the makeup teams produce an array of makeup creatives to enhance the designers’ collections. The Kryolan palette of colours, with its new generation textures and pigments, allows the MUAs to stretch the creatives beyond traditional beauty looks, from fresh face beauty, embellished to theatrical.”
The international showcase for fashion pioneers, Fashion Scout has supported, nurtured and showcased cutting edge designers over the last decade including Iris Van Herpen, Peter Pilotto, Eudon Choi, David Koma, Felder Felder, Maria Francesca Pepe, Piers Atkinson, Agi and Sam, Martina Spetlova, Helen Lawrence, Georgia Hardinge and many more.
We caught up with Lan backstage to chat about their collaboration.
WP: What were your briefs for this season?
LNG: This season’s briefs from the designers that I worked with have been based on modern tribes of looks. Lots of accents of the primary colours with washes of details that are modern and have a unique beautiful style that’s also attainable and can be wearable to the modern woman. I saw lots of colour paint strokes, splashes of glitter and elements of shine. There was lots of beautiful controlled highlight on skin. Groomed brows and dramatic eyes with a nod to the ‘90s on lips. I had a play with combining a full look that had a young twist such as a line of glitter under brow, a smudge red lip, or a graphic eyeliner.
WP: How long do you get to plan the looks?
LNG: I had up to one week to a few days to turn around the looks. It was dependent on when the client arrived right up to the day when testing and doing my demo. We would send ideas back and forth and choose favourites before planning on creating them. This is a long process as we try and eliminate what works and what doesn’t work. It can be hard to keep something so simple or decide to push all out so it’s a statement. On some shows we had to change and trial the look again because the designer had changed their mind, or something wasn’t working anymore. Having that time to play on the test day is so essential but most times also shows what you don’t want.
WP: How do you run simultaneous shows?
LNG: Running the shows really is about knowing your teams’ individual styles that fit the brief and if they can execute the look quick as a team, so I always ensure I have the right assistants. Also, when managing each designer, it’s important to detach myself so I can be focused on the woman I’m trying to portray for the designer. I have a core team that have been working with me for nearly 10 years and I split them into smaller teams, so they can take charge once I have the green light from the designer and I drop into each show to ensure everything is going smoothly.
WP: How many members are in your Pro Team?
LNG: In my pro team I have 14-20 and then second assistants, but also I have many trainees that I take on from schools and word of mouth. In total we would have up to 46-60 makeup artists on a rota.
WP: What’s your biggest challenge at FS?
LNG: The biggest challenge is the timings of ensuring the show runs on time. It’s about being prepared for any changes or lateness of a model and working alongside with the hair and nails in between especially if a look is complicated to achieve. Also, there are cases where you are in a small space that’s very hot and you have only minutes to get the look done so it can be very stressful.
All photographs courtesy of James Basire.