August 31st, 2017
Festival season is in full swing and the make-up inspiration is never too hard to find. Lance Breakwell, rising make-up star and winner of 2017 SME Insurance Services’ Create the Look, has created a sparkling goddess with some top tips to help you create the perfect look every time. We spoke to Lance about how he got started in the industry and what he hopes will happen for his career in the future.
WP: How did you get into make-up?
LB: I first gained an interest in make-up a few years ago. I guess it started off with my obsession for horror films; every time the run-up to Halloween started I would sit down and think, “Right, I’ve seen this make-up effect in a film and I really liked what they did, so I want to recreate this, but I’m on a budget so I’ll try it this way instead and see if this works”. I found myself creating these hybrid characters with so many different elements to them. The end results always gained a lot of compliments and attention which was really rewarding.
After a few years of planning and practicing I decided to look into doing this professionally. I initially had my heart set on going into Horror and Special Effects make-up and prosthetics, but I found the amazing Veronica McAleer who founded and runs the MAKUP academy. Through her four-month intensive set-ready training, she taught me that there is so much more to make-up than just creating special effects looks.
For a complete beginner such as myself, who had never used any sort of professional beauty make-up before, to then find myself four months on showcasing my brand new skills and talents, is incredible. I’ve developed a real hunger to experience the different sides of the make-up world and creating award-winning looks. It really is an amazing course and I can’t thank Veronica enough.
WP: How has winning Create The Look 2017 changed your life?
LB: Winning the SME Insurance Services Create The Look 2017 was a massive confidence boost for me. To really put your all into your art is a scary thing to do, especially to have it out there for the world to judge. Having just started out in this industry and to have one of my images win an award at this early stage in my career is something I’m really proud of. The support I’ve received before, after and during Create The Look 2017 from family, friends and even complete strangers has been outstanding, and I’m so grateful for it all. I loved having the opportunity to experience the recreation of the look and to work with the photographer Johnny Holden again, who shot the photos of my winning look originally. It’s been an invaluable experience, and building my confidence and self-belief is something that you just can’t put a price on.
WP: What do you hope the future holds for you?
LB: In the future, my dream is to showcase my talents and explore so many new things that are out there in the world of make-up. I want to be involved in so many different projects ranging from films, to photoshoots, conventions, theatre, and then who knows? I think it’s super important to keep yourself very open-minded in this industry, and not be afraid of pushing yourself and being outside your comfort zone – it’s a lot more exciting that way. I can’t wait to see what the future holds.
Lance’s inspiration for this look came from the work of make-up artist Sarah Tanno who recently did Lady Gaga’s Coachella make-up and instantly feel in love with the look. He feels that glitter has always been a trend for festivals and can transform make-up looks into beautiful works of art when done right.
Step One: Prep and Prime
Use a primer to help reduce shine. I used w7 Prime Magic Clear Face Primer (£7.95). Primer is a great base for make-up, and will help to keep the look in place for longer.
Step Two: Set The Tone
For the eyelids, I used Stila Eyes Are The Window shadow palette in Soul and MAC Eye Shadow X15 palette in Warm Neutral. Start by taking a mid-transition colour, I used Stila Heart, and apply it all over the lid to set the tone for the eye shadow. To create a gentle transition from light to dark, start from the inner corner of the eye and work towards the outer corner. Then take a slightly darker brown, I used Stila Individual, and apply it from the middle of the eyelid to the outer V corner of the eye.
Next, apply a darker shade of brown, I used Stila Light, to the outer corner of the eyelid and gently blend. Don’t worry about the shadow being too pigmented or heavy at this point, as you can always top it up later on.
Step Three: Bright Eyes
To highlight the inner corner of the eye, I used Fine Glitter Dust by Barry M. With a small brush, gently press the glitter dust into the corner of the eyelid just above the tear duct. This opens up the corner of the eye for a brighter look.
Step Four: Just Wing It
Apply eyeliner. I went for winged eyeliner using MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack, but feel free to get creative and apply in your own style. An added option would be to apply false lashes for an even bolder look.
Step Five: All About The Face
I tend to apply foundation and concealer after doing the eyes, just in case the eyeshadows dust onto the face. I used MAC Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15 foundation and Revlon ColorStay concealer. Once the foundation and concealer has been applied, go in with an eyebrow pencil and strengthen the eyebrows, I used Brow Wiz by Anastasia Beverly Hills in Taupe. For the lips, use a pink-nude colour. MAC lipstick in Honeylove works well, as it doesn’t draw attention away from the eyes.
Step Six: Shape Up
It’s contour time. With the Smashbox Step-By-Step Contour Kit, contour the area along the temples and below the cheekbones, starting from the ear and finishing just in the middle of the cheeks. Use a downward sweeping motion along the jawline to give the illusion of a more defined jaw. Once you’ve finished contouring, apply blusher from the apples of the cheeks going towards the temples.
Step Seven: Splash of Colour
Now to add some colour. I used a variety of blues to create teal/turquoise tones, but feel free to use any colours you wish. You can try this look with pinks, purples and greens – the brighter the colours, the more eye-catching it’ll be.
Apply the shadow to the lash line and blend down to achieve a smokey-eye effect. My top tip is to try and follow the shape of the eye as this will complement the client more.
Step Eight: Highlight
Highlighting has fast become a huge trend on the beauty scene. I used Illamasqua OMG highlight powder to add a glow to the cheekbones. In my opinion, you can never have too much highlight at a festival.
Step Nine: Mascara and Water Line
Once you’re happy with your eyeshadow colours, take some mascara – I used Benefit They’re Real! Lengthening Mascara – and apply it to the eyelashes. Then with an eye pencil – I used two different colours, with a blue and black eye-pencil – create a gradient effect; starting with black in the far corner of the eye and blending it into blue near the tear duct.
Step Ten: Glitter, Glitter and More Glitter
Using a fixing gel and a small brush, gently apply the fixing gel to the area just below the tear duct and place the glitter shapes on the area using your brush. I used a few different glitter shapes, such as stars and butterflies, along with some smaller sprinkles of glitter. Using the same brush you used for the fixing gel will secure the glitter more and ensure it will sparkle all through the day.
Lastly, using the same method as before, apply fixing gel and glitter shapes to just underneath the eyebrow bone and on top of the darkest colour of the eye shadows.
Lance Breakwell was crowned the UK’s Upcoming Stylist and 2017 Winner of SME Insurance Services’ (SMEi) Create the Look competition.