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Eyes Front

March 31st, 2015

March 31st, 2015

The marathon that is Fashion Month is over, and we couldn’t help but notice that one feature was receiving more attention than others when it came to designing the make-up looks.  It was, once more, all about the eyes for A/W ’15, so we thought we’d group together some of the looks in a trend cheat sheet for you.

Heavily Lashed

The structured Victorian-esque clothes were off-set with ethereal, doll-like make-up and soft clouds of hair at Alexander McQueen.  Pat McGrath used rosy gold shades across the eye, with the soft shimmer contrasting against the stark white of the heavily coated lashes.  The effect was softly jarring, and perfectly suited McQueen’s collection.

 

Try the coloured mascara trend now by choosing brighter, jewel-toned mascaras to catch the light this summer.  We love the bronze-brown and blue shades which are soon to be launched from Benefit’s They’re Real! range.

Nina Ricci and Giambattista Valli also featured strong, mascara-heavy looks, courtesy of Val Garland and Aaron de Mey respectively.  Garland favoured another doll-like look, coating both upper and lower lashes, with an inner corner highlight brightening the inner eye and preventing too much shadow cast.  Use a subtle, natural contour shade in the crease to create dimension without detracting from the lashes.

 

Mascara-Free

Other designers bucked the trend of a dark, smoky eye for A/W, and instead kept a spring-like, natural look on the face.  Highlighting the perfected skin and youthful bare faced look, Stella McCartney, Marni, Chloé and Balmain all used versions of this look.

At Christopher Kane, Lucia Pieroni created a healthy, flushed natural face, with a subtle touch of rosy colour on the eyes to match the cheeks and lips.  Eyes were kept wide and bright with the help of a brightening pencil in the waterline – try Rimmel Scandeleyes (£3.99) in Nude.

Pat McGrath designed a very bare-faced look at Givenchy to contrast with the ornate facial embellishments, with only a hint of a nude shade swept across the socket and a subtle yet strong, groomed brow.

 

Big & Bold

Statement eyes were all over the catwalk in numerous guises.  From sheer shadow to opaque graphic lines, the whole eye area was encompassed for many of these bold looks.

We loved the Boy and Girl looks at Chanel, created by Tom Pecheux.  For Boy, models sported a wash of heavy grey shadow stretching from the inner corner, diffusing across the lids and brows from there, while Girls wore heavy cat eyes, enveloping the entire eye and created using matt shadow rather than a liquid liner.

Peter Philips chose to create striking blocks of jewel-toned colour at Dior.  From navy to plum, these bold, elongated colour blocks lent a simplicity to the look, whilst still looking chic and polished.  Philips used the upcoming A/W 5 Couleurs palettes, applied with a damp brush to maximise colour intensity.  Similar blocks of shadow could be seen at Prada, but in a much more sheer finish.

Lined Up 

Black liner is such a staple in kits that you can forget its versatility.  We noticed a lot of pencil looks, overtaking the sleek liquid styles which have been so favoured in recent years.  At Lanvin Pat McGrath tightlined right round, then finished the look with big, groomed brows and beautifully fresh skin.  She designed a less precise look for Versace, using pencil to create an imperfect, smudged definition.  At Michael Kors and Narciso Rodriguez, Dick Page favoured softer shades of brown and gunmetal to line.

Lucia Pieroni chose a liquid texture to create the precise rounded, graphic design which appeared almost like butterfly wings above and below the eye at Rochas.  A fluid liner was Val Garland’s pick to create the Hitchcock heroine-inspired looks at Erdem, with bold feline flicks – but kept the look modern with no mascara.  If you’re a fan of gel liners, we can’t recommend the Delilah Gel Line (£22) enough.  The shades are beautiful, with great opacity and they are extremely long-lasting; they would be perfect to recreate these looks.

Shadow Play

Softer shadows were more prevalent in New York, using both cream and powder products.  We loved Altuzurra’s look by Tom Pecheux, contrasting warm copper and cold grey cream shadows together.  Diane Kendal was on hand at Proenza Schouler to fashion a simple, undone look using black cream shadow smeared from the inner corner – the new careless, yet full of attitude, look.

 

Kendal worked on the Prabal Gurung look too, using black liner and a beautifully tawny, bronze-brown shade which was perfectly autumnal.  Another very seasonal feel was the work of Linda Cantello at Giorgio Armani.  With these ‘Bella Ragazza’ beauties, the look was a twist on the expected – smudgy liner, with a play of shadows meeting at the crease.  A band of smoky grey enforcing the natural of the shadow, yet standing apart at the same time.  Get the look with their stunning new Eye Tints (£27).

All images belong to Indigital.

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By Deborah Murtha

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