October 1st, 2014
They’ve been in sharp focus once more during Fashion Weeks and brows are now firmly established as both statement and big business. Warpaint looks at the trends hitting the catwalks for SS 15, and the ready-to-wear versions for the more faint-hearted.
Brows plucked to within an inch of their lives have finally had their day, as bold replace skimpy courtesy of such famous browmeisters as Cara Delevigne and Suki Waterhouse, whose fuller, yet a much more natural, look trumps the original heavy, dark, Scouse brow.
And so we see them dominating in the world for spring 2015. When adding arches, they become a statement on the runways of New York, London, Paris and Milan, combining shape with added colour and adornment.
Cara, Rosie and Kendall all sported the Pat McGrath version at Givenchy SS15, the brow bleach. Dramatic, especially for Cara, the bleached or ombre can change the face completely, lightening and enlarging the eyes. Alexander Wang went for a completely mute eyebrow, achieving a pure blonde brow, courtesy of Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics.
The bleach brow also facilitates an even more dramatic look when colour is added to the brow, and the pastels of SS 15 are all over the brows. Over at Badgley Mischka, Tom Pecheux was playful with subtle powdery shades embellished not only models’ tresses but their eyebrows, using MAC cream eye shadows and letting the girls pick their own colours.
At Rodarte, James Kaliardos for NARS Cosmetics introduced another bold eyebrow trend with shocking adornments for brows, utilising artificial rings arranged in a row.
Diane Kendal once again brought brows to the forefront at Thakoon with NARS Cosmetics. Here the models had perfectly groomed, full looking arches, giving them get a youthful touch and brushing them up for a more effective vibe.
So to work some brow magic of your own it’s clear there’s more to it than a brown pencil, a roll of cotton and some tweezers, brows now have a whole routine of their own. To begin:
Used to dress the naked parts of a stripped-down arch, wax will give a natural sheen to the brow and can be tinted or clear. Allowing you to fill gaps and set the powder or pencil, less is very much more in the case of brow wax, as it can build up very quickly – the lighter formula is better.
Inglot Freedom System Brow Wax £4.50 each
These are ideal for defining ones that already have a good shape, giving more uniform density than a pencil. For temporary changes, coloured powders on bleached brows work best.
Billion Dollar Brows Powder, four shades for £18
Illamasqua Brow Cake, six shades for £15.50
Gels will set the brow shape, adding just the tiniest hint of hue, as well as managing longer, unruly arches. A water-resistant formula that won’t flake or dry too shiny or crispy is better. For tinted brow gels, the formula should colour the individual hairs without staining the skin below, a feat best accomplished by a wand that isolates each hair perfectly. And for both clear and tinted types, the gel shouldn’t disturb the powder or pencil underneath. To achieve natural lift, the gel needs to be swept through the brow in an upward motion.
MAC Brow Set, three shades including clear £13.50
Still a vital staple in any brow kit, only a pencil can create the illusion of a single strand and fill sparse hair so precisely. Ideally pencils should be waxed, matte and lighter than the natural shade, the finer the tip will allow for definition.
Offer an all-in-one option, usually with shades of powder, wax, pencils, brushes and tweezers. Many come with highlighters, fewer with gels.
Benefit Brow-zing £24.50
Other useful Brow products in your kit could also include:
Blink Brow Bar Nourishing Brow Oil £16, to nourish and stimulate growth.
The Cool Fix Lip and Brow Rollerball from Shaveworks £14.50, to aid irritation from hair removal sites.
Japonesque Brow Shaping Scissors £16.50, with a built in comb and angled to allow for perfect arched curves.
Kryolan Eyebrow Plastic £6, used when natural brow needs to be blocked out and an alternative created.