August 29th, 2014
We got a fairly good idea of the winter trends in make-up from the catwalks back in February. Here come the Collections packed full of the colours and products to create them. Warpaint rounds up the best of the AW 14 colour and complexion launches as well as the key trends this season.
Back at the start of the year Pantone announced Radiant Orchid as the colour of 2014, though in fact they predicted a whole palette of 10 colours which we’ll see across fashion, footwear and accessories as well as make-up. As the collections come pouring in you’ll see 2 distinct themes, the looks and the colours.
From the runways of London, Paris, New York and Milan clear looks emerged to complement the A/W fashions. Skin was luminous and minimal, eyes were lined either above with a variety of flicks or below and often both for smudged smoky. Lashes were huge and often clumped and the metallic and nude textures and shades were the contrasting effect. Flashes of colour added to the eyes or lips in the key shades.
Ten colours were predicted and these shades are all over the A/W 14 collections. Cognac, Aluminum, Cypress, Bright Cobalt and Royal Blue contrast Mauve, Orchid and Misted Yellow, with a burst of Aurora Red and Sangria. We’ve pulled the products from the many launched this month that deliver on both the 2014 Autumn Look and the on-trend colour.
There’s a difference between the minimal/glowing skin and the use of nude shades to highlight and contour. For Marc Jacobs NYFW look François Nars wanted the models to look like mannequins, including Kendall Kardashian – a lot of powder was used for a matte porcelain finish. The nudes here are all NARS. The Daks Show at LFW saw MUA Maria Comparetto create a brown smoky eye that’s more nude that naughty. MAC provided the products of choice here. Burberry’s AW look incorporates the new nude blush and shadow and was created by Burberry Make-up Artistic Consultant, Wendy Rowe, under the creative direction of Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer, Christopher Bailey.
Nudes from the collections
OCC’s Unknown Collection includes new shades of their famous Lip Tars, our fave nudes include LAMENT: Neutral Rose Beige and COVET: Golden Buff Neutral. NYX has plenty on offer but for the nudists, their Matte Lipstick is highly pigmented, richly formulated and long-wearing (£6). Illamasqua has created Vintage Metallix Eye Shadow (£16.50) a long lasting, metallic cream-gel texture, with the smudge resistant; Courtier (dusky rose) is just nude perfection. Clarins Pro Palette (£35) and the new Rouge Éclat in Strawberry Sorbet (£19) tick the nude box as do Chanel, with the 4 shadow set in Poesie and lip gloss Rose Reve.
A flash of blue on the eye was seen at plenty of the shows, used by Lucia Pieroni for Giles; Aaron de May for Kenzo; Lisa Eldridge for Temperley, Pat McGrath MBE for Anna Sui and Sam Bryant for Michael Van Der Ham and Dior. Interestingly, there’s a micro-trend for a blue lip, most notably at Ann Yee where Jon Reyman chose a royal blue lip colour for the models.
Blues from the collections
Bright strong blues are all over the winter collections, as much as the temperature for the season they come in ice through to blacky blue navy. Most palettes will present with nudes, mauves or silvers, but the accent blue in all is bold. The new INGLOT Freedom System Eye Shadow includes shimmery nudes alongside the blues and Estée Lauder’s new Pure Color Envy Sculpting EyeShadow 5-Color Palette in Infamous Sky (£40) does similar. Dior’s winter collection includes a 5 Couleurs Eye Shadows Palette; Carre Bleu (£42) mixes blue with silver where as Bar Pied-de-Poule is a much darker blue affair. Pixi’s Mesmerising Palettes (£12) fuse blue with purple and silver and Burberry’s new complete eye palette in Slate Blue is new for the season. For the inky blue lips we loved OCC’s new lip tar in Vain.
Aluminium Silver or Cognac Copper, metallic eyes and lips shone through. Rodarte was a shimmering copper extravaganza, thanks to James Kaliardos and NARS. Charlotte Tilbury was charged with the make-up for Donna Karan and made sure there was plenty of silvery metallic to go round, as did Diane Kendall for Tory Burch, Linda Cantello for Giorgio Armani and Katie Jane Hughes using Butter London for Libertine.
Metallics from the collections
Armani’s Fade to Grey was the palette of choice at the show and the colours are launched for this season (£65). NYX is now a brand under L’Oreal’s wing, as the season changes they have launched a myriad of new products, their nine colour palettes (£10) include A La Mode, a collection of smoky metals. INGLOT’s eyeliners cover most of this season’s colours from aluminum to cypress, but metallic they sure are. M&S continue their make-up journey and for autumn have launched pretty eyeshadow quads, Grey Mix (£12) is a stock silver companion.
Liners and Lashes
Pat McGrath was very busy creating a lash trend for both Prada and Gucci, faked or clumped you couldn’t miss the lashes. Lauren Anderson took lashes and twisted them for Nicholas K, only highlighting the lowers for a cat-like look with a difference. The top line is clear, either at Dolce & Gabbana by Miss McGrath again, as well as Kabaki for Zac Posen, Charlotte Tilbury for Cushine et Ochs, Gucci Westman for Rag & Bone, Terry Barber for Jean Pierre Braganza and with a real accentuated flick at Jean Paul Gautier. Uzo for NARS at Tayna Taylor went top and bottom with a clever break in the middle and thoroughly smudged by Gucci again at Jonathan Sim Khai.
Liners and Lashes from the collections
One of our favourite liners coming out this season is Powder-Kajal from By Terry (£29) which takes the radically hi-tech form of a wearable and weightless mineral powder to create pliant kohl that goes on like a charm, thanks to the foolproof felt-tip applicator. Givenchy has included NOIR COUTURE No. 5 Violet Etonnant Mascara in its seasonal offering which is über-creamy as well as precise. RMK’s Limited edition Matte Mascara (£23) comes in 4 new shades and newly designed W brush will separate, curl and volumise your lashes to perfection. Also launching is Stila’s revolutionary Mile High Lashes™ Mascara (£16).which creates a sky-high lift and curl.
Skin was a big story back in February, or rather the illuminated glow that some products and MUAs can create. Best seen at Victoria Beckham, when yes, Pat McGrath again created a healthy iridescence to the models’ faces. James Kaliardos did much the same for Diane Von Furstenberg as well as Lucia Pieroni for Christopher Kane who wanted a glowing tomboy look. Glowing skin was also seen at Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Jason Wu.
Glowing skin from the collections
There’s a plethora of illuminators out on the market, but new ones include Max Factor’s Skin illuminator, as used by Pat McGrath for Victoria Beckham. Estée Lauder has a new Perfectionist Youth-Infusing Make-up SPF 25, this foundation is infused with Estée Lauder’s youth-enhancing Perfectionist [CP+R] Serum technology to deliver real skincare benefits and transform skin’s look and feel. This super-performing silky make-up glides on seamlessly leaving complexions looking luminously radiant, glowing and noticeably younger (£37) NYX Liquid Illuminator (£7) is lightweight and multi-functional and can be used as a foundation base or over cheekbones, décolletage, or cupids bow for that refreshing luminosity. Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation (£32) gives the instantly perfecting radiance of studio lighting with lasting luminosity.
With more than a nod to the swinging ‘60s, the high hair and kohl eyes took you right back to the decade of the mini skirt and Mary Quant. Pat McGrath was once more responsible for the looks at Gucci and Nina Ricci, but the ‘60s were high on the agenda for Versace, Oscar de la Renta and YSL.
‘60s from the Collections
LOLA’s It Girl Collections are paying homage to the buzz of ‘60s downtown New York and in particular for this decade Edie Sedgewick, The IT GIRL collection features Lip Gloss in 009 Hot Pink (£10), along with 6 eyeshadows (£10), an Automatic Pencil (£10), Eye Pencil (£10), an Intense Colour Lipstick (£12), Matte Lipstick (£12), Lip Gloss (£10) and 3 Nail Polishes (£8). Givenchy’s PALETTE EXTRAVAGANCIA (£45.00) created by Nicolas Degennes includes a discreet shade of lipstick, a luminous and transparent pink, with four never-seen-before eyeshadow shades. Satiny brown and purple define and deepen the eyes. Burnished gold and shimmering silver will layer for added intensity. Trish McEvoy’s new Limited Edition Deluxe Power of Beauty® Palette Radiance will brighten and highlight eyes with the lighter shadow whilst giving the option to apply the deeper shades onto the lash line, lid or crease to instantly transform the mood of the make-up (£59) ‘60s queen Mary Quant herself has new collections for AW14, her eye openers come in two combinations (£34 each) packed full of seasonal shades in iconic packaging.
As far as make-up is concerned you’ll find Aurora Red and Sangria very much on everyone’s lips. Lisa Eldridge used it with stunning effect on Rosie Huntington Whitely at Grace as did James Boehmer with NARS for Naeem Khan and Pat McGrath for Prada. Whilst most lips were indeed nude, rules need exceptions and a bright red lip is an anti-trend we love.
Reds from the Collections
In the 1950s, Christian Dior would send out scarlet coloured designs during catwalk shows to wake up the audience and get their attention. He called these designs his “Trafalgars”. Fast forward to Autumn 2014 and the house of Dior has created a stunning red for lips and nails in the form of Rouge Dior Massai 869 (£26), Dior Vernis Rouge Massai 853 (£18.50). Urban Decay’s Pulp Fiction Collection also features a bold red in the shape of Mrs Mia Wallace (£15). If you prefer something a little lighter then Chantecaille’s new Mulberry Luminous Gloss (£27) from the fall collection is altogether more sangria and with light-reflecting gold is a very wearable red.