March 12th, 2014
With the finale of Paris Fashion Week behind us, and Fashion Month over for another season, Warpaint has been scrutinising the latest beauty trends from Europe’s fashion capitals. Expect more effortless, perfected skin and lots of eye-focus for A/W 2014, as bold lips become a thing of the past.
Pat McGrath was on hand to conjure up beautiful looks aplenty this season once more, and took a slightly different approach at the Prada show by letting some of the models apply their own lipstick, in a bright red. Combined with the thick, clumpy mascara, the look was of girls applying make-up for the first time – young, inexperienced and yet fresh. Others bore washes of pale blue shadow and a slight berry-stain on the lips.
A much more polished look took shape at Gucci, again designed by McGrath, modernism with a touch of the swinging ‘60s to complement the A-line shapes and retro touches of the clothes. Shades of brown and taupe were used to contour eyes and face, with Twiggy-esque false lashes on both the upper and lower lashlines.
Fendi took a similar approach, with MUA Peter Philips crafting a stunningly modern and effortless look using plenty of contouring to create defined cheekbones and the perfect smoky eye. Philips used Make Up For Ever products to create the look, including their Matte Eyeshadows in 165 and 17, with a light touch of Clear Super Lip Gloss on the lips.
At Roberto Cavalli there were more intense smoky eyes, with the winged-out smoke almost reaching the ends of the eyebrow. MUA Diane Kendal kept the smoke tight into the crease, stretching the colour out, rather than upwards.
Metallics made an appearance at Emilio Pucci, with some of the models’ foreheads adorned with a wash of gold to complement the metallic elements in the garments. MUA Yadim used taupe shadows to contour the eyes, pushing black eyeliner into the waterline and tightlining the upper lids, with lashings of black mascara. A natural lip and gentle contouring of the cheeks soften the look.
Linda Cantello broke away from these browns and taupes with her look for Giorgio Armani by choosing a soft grey to define the crease of the eye and stretch out to the strong, filled-in brows. A soft, bitten berry lip added a soft injection of colour. Recreate the look using Armani’s Rouge Ecstasy lip colour in 602, Night Viper, and Eyes To Kill eyeliner in Shade 3, Mercury Nude from the Fall collection, available August 2014.
Pat McGrath once again took the lead at Dolce & Gabbana, as their Creative Designer of Make Up, to create a beautiful look befitting the show entitled Enchanted Sicily. Keeping everything very soft and romantic, complexions were brightened with soft pink on the cheeks and lips, with the colour fading from the centre of the mouth. Pale browns and taupes defined the eyes, gently smoked out, with a delicate cat-flick with black liner. Imitate the soft glowing skin using Dolce & Gabbana’s Perfect Luminous Liquid Foundation, and the delicate pink lips with their Classic Cream Lipstick in Honey.
Undoubtedly one of the most talked about shows, Chanel’s supermarket sweep of a show was visually impacting and unexpected on every level, including the model’s make-up. Defined brows combined with contouring and a pretty peach on the lips and cheeks created the strong bone structure to carry off the silver-painted eyes, lit up with a subtle flash of neon liner. Bright, fun and full of attitude, it was the perfect pairing to Lagerfeld’s trainers’n’tweed combinations.
Metallics played their part at the Alexander McQueen show too, where Pat McGrath used exaggerated feathered lashes, stretching up and over the brows, and touches of silver to create a striking, animalistic look. A second look was created using a mixture of browns, bronze and silver around the eyes – a sculpted, illuminated and futuristic look, paired with bleached brows and hair pulled back into intricate cornrows, making those eyes the centre of all attention.
Bold colours made a statement at the Dior show, with McGrath creating both a vivid blue, latex eye and a gentler khaki eye look. For the blue eye, she used glitter and aqua blue liquid pigment, pushed into real latex paint painted across the entire eye area. For the khaki smoky eye, she used Dior’s 5 Couleurs palette in Pied de Poule, available this August – “I wanted it to feel urban and slightly masculine,” she explained.
For Kenzo, head MUA Aaron de May used MAC Chromaline in Marine Ultra to build up the electric blue winged eye, inspired by David Lynch’s iconic film Blue Velvet. A matching shade decorated the nails, while the rest of the face was simple and flawless.
Experimental was the name of the game at Anthony Vaccarello, where Estée Lauder’s Creative Make-Up Director, Tom Pecheux, used dental floss to apply the fine, imperfect lines of black liquid liner and slashes of red lipstick around the eye. “I wanted to create something conceptual, rock and roll, and sophisticated,” he said of his finished look, created using Estée Lauder Double Wear Zero-Smudge Liquid Eyeliner in Black and Pure Color Envy lipstick in Envious for the red. Lips were a soft nude-pink, so as not to detract from the eyes, using Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Intense Nude and Rebellious Rose. A thin line of Pure Color Envy Nail Lacquer in Red Ego on the very tips of the nail completed the edgy look.
At Lanvin the look was of slept-in black lids and flawless skin. Pat McGrath directed her team of artists to draw a thick line of cream or gel eyeliner across the lid, then create an almost feathered effect by applying more liner in different directions from above the crease. False lashes finished the bold look.
Diane Kendal rounds off our selection of looks with her work at Chloé, using MAC products to create a deeper, autumnal version of a springtime lilac eye. MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Breaking Ground was used to create a faintly cat-eye shape, upon which Beautiful Iris eyeshadow was pressed. A touch of Heirloom eye pencil and a sweep of Tenderling blush created the perfect trans-seasonal make-up look.