THE ONLINE MAGAZINE FOR MUAS THE WORLD OVER

Speak Easy

February 26th, 2014

February 26th, 2014

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Over two days in a very sunny E16, MUAs flocked to Professional Beauty London to listen and learn from some of the UK’s leading experts in fashion and edit make up, body painting, TV work, bridal looks and special effects. If you missed the Warpaint London Conference here’s our recap.

Speakers: Laura Brown and Laura Walker, jane iredale

Topic: Retailing in Salons

@janeiredale_UK

iiaa business development manager Laura Brown specialises in helping beauty professionals to boost retail income and make-up artist Laura Walker is an expert tutor in the art of flawless make-up application.  They explained the secrets of salon profitability with tips on selling more make-up to clients and illustrations of the amount of additional revenue that can be made simply by retailing an extra product each day.

Speakers: Collette Casey

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Topic:  Looks for Editorial and Working With Celebs

@collette1976

With more than a decade of experience in photographic and advertising shoots, Collette has worked many high profile brands and celebs and brought her expertise in how to work to an editorial brief, explaining who does what in an editorial team and how to work alongside them to the best effect.

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She showed an example brief that she got for a recent job and how she personally interpreted it working in conjunction with the stylist.  The look she created was Disco Decadence which she recently did on one of her celebrity clients, consisting of a plummy smoky eye, strong brows and a deep matte berry lip. The glam curled hair finished the look.

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Step 1. Prime the skin with Benefit Cosmetics Porefessional (£24.50).

Step 2. Apply foundation with a stipple brush buffing the skin in circular motions until perfectly blended – Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24H (£28.50)

Step 3. Prime the eyes very lightly with a soft blending brush – MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Painterly (£15).

Step 4. Define the brows with a small angled brush – HD Brows Professional Eye & Brow Palette (£29.95).

Step 5. Dust over the entire eyes in a soft shimmer then using two darker shades.  Build up the colour in the outer corners of the lid and bring it up and out slightly to lengthen the eyes, use the same colours to line under the lower lashes just 3/4 of the way in then smudge it out using a larger eyeshadow blending brush – Charlotte Tilbury Luxury Palette in Vintage Vamp (£38).

Step 6. Definite with a pencil liner on the water line top and bottom to intensify the look – BADgal liner by Benefit Cosmetics (£17.50).

Step 7. Apply Concealer under the eyes then blend out very gently with a small soft brush – Mac Pro Longwear Concealer (£15.50).

Step 8. Curl natural lashes and apply false lashes for a more dramatic look.

Step 9. Whilst lashes are drying, continue with the bronzer contouring the cheekbones and adding a golden glow to the skin, then highlighted cheekbones and Cupid’s bow – Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze and Glow (£49).

Step 10. Dust the skin lightly around the nose and areas that most become shiny – Mac Blot Powder Pressed (£20).

Step 11. Once the lash glue is dry apply mascara to blend natural lashes into false ones – Benefit They’re real Mascara in black (£19.50).

Step 12. Lips are lined in Revlon Colorstay Lipliner in Plum (£6.29) then filling in with MAC Lipstick Hang-up (£15).  Add a little gloss in the middle using Benefit Ultra Plush Lip Gloss in Icebreaker (£14.50).

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Presenter: Dani Guinsberg

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Topic:  Flawless Skin: How to achieve the Perfect Base

@DaniGuinsberg

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Leading UK MUA and Session School CEO, Dani’s seminar focused on skin primarily, as this is the basis for perfect flawless base make-up. She looked at bone structure, explained skin types and skin concerns, and advocated the use of skin oils most of all for concerns such as dehydration.

The secret is thin layers that are well blended.  For a dewy look, put the dewiness under the foundation, not on top with highlighter, or it won’t give that natural under the skin glow.

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PRODUCTS USED:

EX1 Invisiwear Liquid Foundation (£10.50)

Givenchy Mister Light Corrective Pen in 03 (£24)

Daniel Sandler Water Colour Blusher (£15.50)

LOLA Face and Body Bronzer bronzing powder (£19)

Lancôme Teint Miracle (£28)

Benefit High Beam (£19.50)

RMK Translucent Face Powder (£33)

Victoria Loves Beauty Professional Tapered Synthetic Foundation Brush (£12.99)

MAC Sculpting Powder Pro Palette (£15.50)

LOLA Cosmetics lipstick in nude (£12)

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Presenter: Armand Beasley

Armand and Dar

Armand and Dar

Topic:  Industry Faves – secrets of the MUA’s kit

@ArmandBeasley

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For every make-up artist, the cost and time of building up your kit is a key concern.  In the cosmetic universe there are products being launched practically every week, and keeping up to speed on what’s hot and what’s not is not only time consuming, but also costly while to try and test to find the latest wonder product that works for you and your client.

Celebrity MUA and TV beauty expert, Armand Beasley has 20 years of experience in the beauty industry and he brought some of his favourite products along to host a seminar dedicated to Makeup Kit Musthaves.  Armand’s clients range from Hollywood to international royalty, and his work has been photographed many times on various Red Carpets, so who better than to give Warpaint readers the fast track on what to get for your kit?

Our very own Bridget, fresh from maternity leave, volunteered to be Armand’s model so the audience could see how the products worked on the skin.

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Here are some of the products he used:

Skin: Merumaya luxury facial wash (£14.50)

Tool: Clarisonic Mia once a day or for very sensitive skins once a week (£99)

Face mask: Sisley Black Rose Face Mask. Expensive but instant results (£93)

Spot treatment: Green People Zap and Clear (£10.95)

Eye Primer: Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion (£16). Super effective at holding onto shadows and prevent creasing.

Face Primer: Smashbox Photo Finish (£25). Holds onto foundation really well.

Foundation: Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (£35.50). Buildable coverage that perfects the skin.

YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation (£30.50) is great for dull skins especially and good range of shades.

Contouring: Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencils (£12) or use three shades of foundation.

Concealer: YSL Touché Éclat Complextion Highlighter (£25) in an array of shades brings light to any dark areas.

MAC Pro Longwear Concealer (£15.50) (only at Pro stores).  Works really well on dark circles, but you have to work fast before it sets.  Great shades that you can mix.

Powder: MAC Blot Powder Pressed (£20).

Eyes: Urban Decay Naked Palette 2 (£37).  Versatile shades of nudes and earth tones.

Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencil (£18).  My favourite shades are BlackNavy and Jet.  Good staying power even along the waterline.

Urban Decay 24/7 Waterproof Liquid Liner in Perversion Black (£14). Quick drying long lasting liner.

Code VLM Volume Lengthening Mascara (£19.95).  A buildable mascara that doesn’t make your lashes brittle and really does lift and give length.  Not as good if you use a disposable wand.

Givenchy Phenomen Eyes Waterproof Mascara (£23).  In ball applicator, once mastered can achieve an amazing look.

Avon Glimmersticks Eye Liner (£6).  Super soft liners that are easy to apply and have decent staying power.

MAC Reflects Pearl (£17).  Only available in person at Pro Store in Carnaby Street or via US website, but this goes everywhere with Armand.  Perfect for subtle or intense sparkle.

Nouveau Lashes (£8.95) are easy to apply and are really pliable.  Great selection of styles.  A must for any kit.

Brows: HD Brow Palette in Bombshell (£19.96) is a really versatile quad that can save space in your kit.

Sisley Phyto Sourcils Perfect Eyebrow Pencils in Blonde & Cappuccino (£32.50).

YSL Eyebrow Pencil (£19.50) and Givenchy Eye Brow Show Pencils (£16.50).  Good shades with a brush at the other end which you can spray with a little hairspray and sweep through the brows to set.

Lips: Estée Lauder Doublewear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil (£16.50).  Long wearing and fairly soft.

Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-on Lip Pencils in various shades (£13).  Longwear and soft.

Max Factor Colour Elixir Gloss Nude Pomade collection (£7.99).  Gorgeous nude glosses that look and feel great.

Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar (£11.50) sinks into the lips for longwearing lip stain effect with minimal transfer.

Cheeks:  NARS Orgasm Blush (£21.50) is a very versatile shade which works well on all ages.

Givenchy Prisme Visage Blusher in Shade Amber Organza (£33 on special this week at Debenhams) is great for adding definition & some contouring for fair to medium skin tones.

Bobbi Brown has a good range of bronzers (£27).

Sleek (£6.49) and Kiko (£9.90) are great budget brand alternatives.

Makeup fixer:  Urban Decay All Nighter Long-Lasting Makeup Setting Spray (£19.50)

Armand also brought a special guest with him.  Last November at his Warpaint North seminar actress, Catherine Tyldesley, who always asks for Armand whenever she is doing a shoot, came along to help him, so we all wondered who was going to pop along this time.  It was no other than celebrity hairdresser Dar whose clients range from Hollywood’s Goldie Hawn to Bollywood’s Aishwarya Rai.  Dar’s work has graced the cover of Italian Vogue as well as Tatler.  He came along to support Armand and complete Bridget’s look by sharing a few tips on how to increase volume and enhance a look.  Many delegates work in hair as well as make-up so loved the idea of this complete makeover.

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And here’s a picture of our über glamorous Bridget….all set for the Pro Beauty Awards evening!

Speakers: Jennie Roberts, Catriona Finlayson and Laurence Caird, Paintopia

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@Paintopia

Founder of the UK’s largest bodypaint event, Paintopia Face and Body Painting Festival, held annually in Norfolk, Jennie and colleague Cat spent an hour pre-conference prepping model Laurence for this vintage clothing look.  Once the seminar was underway they talked through what they had done the hour before, the products they were using, incorporating the use of stencils in their work and how they got into the industry.  They also talked about the growth of the Paintopia festival and showed books of their work.  The finished Laurence walked around the show to great effect.

Products used:

Cameleon Bodypaint: (£3.10)

32g Baseline Coffee Brown BL3012

32g Baseline Almond BL3022

32g Baseline Pure White BL3015

32g Baseline Strong Black BL3013

32g Baseline Black Velvet BL3014

32g Baseline Clover Green BL3009

32g Baseline Teal BL3010

32g Metal Oscar Gold ML3005

Full set of Cameleon One Stroke Brushes

Cameleon Epic Gold Glitter Bling

Crownbrush Kabuki (from £6.49)

Royal and Langnickle Kabuki (from £12.76)

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Presenter: Heidi Scarlett King

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Topic:  The Modern Smoky Eye: Bold Berry Eye Trends

@HeidiScarlettK

Australian-born MUA, Heidi brings over 12 years experience in the world of fashion, celebrity & TV make-up.  Resident Beauty Expert on ITV’s This Morning show, she’s more than qualified to bring us the latest trends.

Spring is the most exciting time in the beauty calendar.  With the Golden Globes, the Grammys, the BAFTAS, the Brits and all the Fashion weeks, this means loads of exciting new trends down the catwalk and red carpet.

Heidi recreated a bold eye trend which has become big for the last two seasons featuring in shows like Gucci, Erdem, Rodarte and Burberry in varied styles.  It’s complimentary on almost any colouring and there’s a version it that anyone can wear.

First hitting the colour trends in the 1920s, berry eye tones were worn also with a dark lip which looked dramatic and beautiful.   To bring this up to the minute and add extra darkness and smokiness to the eye, create a perfect, velvety skin (another big trend this season) and a pale pinky tone on the lips.

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Prime with Urban Decay Eye Potion (£16) across the eye to create an invisible veil for colour.

Next use Bourjois Paris Colour Edition 24h Shadow (£6.99) in a warm berry shade, and apply with a small round brush, and blend upwards towards the socket line.  Make sure the concentration of colour is along the lash line to create depth closer to the eyes.  Continue to build and blend until even across the lid and also add under the eyes like an eyeliner with a small stubby brush.

Next add some dark frame work with a warm berry brown shadow – Kiko Water eyeshadow in 204 (£8.90) – which can be used wet or dry.  Using a small round brush, pat in the berry shadow into the outer edges of the eye near the lashes and blend as you go.

Then adding a darker matt shade – MAC Eye Shadow in Embark (£12.50) – blend lightly with a soft fluffy brush across the socket line and just above to create a beautiful shadow over the lid.  Add a small amount under the eyes under the lashes to intensify the look.

Get a super black pencil – ELF Kohl Eyeliner in black (£3.95) – and using small strokes into the lash line to add more darkness, and the blend into the outer edges of the lid. Make sure you blend after.

The most important thing when doing any eye work is blending.  Even those really strong styles need blending to give a finished look.  Any soft fluffy rounded brushes are great for blending out rough edges.

Add a bit of colour to really make this look pop.  Lots of loose pigments have hit the markets over the years, but the original is MAC pigment. The difference between this pigment and normal eyeshadow is that it contains zero filler and 100% pure pigment colour, giving you the strongest form of colour you can apply.  Place the colour carefully directly over the eye paint and patting on, and blending together.

Always curl the lashes, even if like this look the lashes aren’t a big focus, as it draws the eye shape upwards.  Add Two Faced Better Than Sex Mascara (£19).  Very intense and thick, it makes lashes look quite wild.  Another point with a more natural daytime look and eye make-up, the eyelashes should take you the longest to do out of the whole eye look.  Take time to curl and layer several times to really coat the lashes as that is the most critical part of the look.

Clean up any under eye mess with cotton tips and MAC Fix + (£14.50) then massaging Hourglass No.28 Primer Serum (£62) into the skin well.  Enriched in essential oils this primer hydrates but also keeps the foundation in place and gives a velvety finish to the skin.

Use downward strokes with a foundation brush with RMK Liquid Foundation (£33) to create an even finish and apply extra layers to any redness.

This base is made perfect by adding MAC Pro Longwear Concealer (£15.50) to under the eyes, around the nose, blemishes and the front of the face.

Set the hot spot areas of the face with an invisible sheer powder – By Terry Hydra Hyaluronic powder (£42) – with a small fluffy brush to get into any small corners of the face.

Now for some subtle contouring with a cream bronzer – Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel (£31) – sweeping through the bone areas of the face such as under the jawline, cheekbones, temples, forehead and also the neck with a medium angle brush.

A tiny pop of blush just on the apples of the cheeks comes from L’Oreal Paris True Match Blush in True Rose 115 (£7.69).

Sweep a powder highlighter – Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette in Incandescent light (£56) – on the high planes of the face like the top of the cheekbones, down the nose and above the brows.

Harmonise lips with cheeks to compliment the intensity of the eyes, feather in a fleshy pink neutral lip pencil – Maybelline Color Sensational Lip Liner in Sweet Pink (£3.99) – all over the lips.  Sweep a baby pink lipgloss over the top Mac Creamsheen Glass in Fashion Whim (£17.50) to finish.

Finish the look with Urban Decay All Nighter Long-Lasting Makeup Setting Spray (£19.50) in a T-zone and then an X motion across the face to set and maintain.

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Presenter: Ema Doherty

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Topic:  How Colour Really Affects The Skin

@exactmakeupart

Having a career spanning 18 years Ema uses her experiences in the West End, print and cosmetic brand management to give her brides a unique and colourful design service.  In association with colour specialists Red Leopard, Ema shares her experiences of how colour affects the skin, how colours can be warm and cool.  Whilst skin tones may be pink, yellow or neutral, this is not necessarily how colours work on the skin, your client and their bridal parties can be at opposing sides of the colour wheel – described as the season from spring to winter.

Ema demonstrated by picking a girl out of the audience and used coloured fabrics to show how colours enhance or detract from the complexion.  The differences were immediately apparent with each different shade.

Colour matching can be very apparent alongside bridal make-up, as brides may be a summer, but their bridesmaids might be a winter, and Ema’s job is to ensure that tones don’t jar on the day including shades of the wedding dress – ivory, white, champagne –  bridesmaid dress colours and how to make sure each bridesmaid if they have different complexions perfectly compliments the bride and each other if they are wearing the same dresses.  Ema explained how if the bridesmaid is wearing a summer colour and she is a winter skintone, she would have to do more concealing or more warming up through colours of makeup applied.

Products used all by Jane Iredale:

Dream Tint in Light (£31) applied with Blending brush (£29)
Purepressed base in Amber (£39.95) applied with The Handi brush (£26.50)
Highlighting and shading applied with Purepressed base in Ivory and Latte (£39.95) CircleDelete 2 (£24) applied with the Camouflage brush

Blonde Bitty Brow kit applied with the Angle Definer brush
Eye gloss in Champagne Silk (£14.95) applied with the Camouflage brush
Purepressed Eye Shadows in Wink and Cloud Nine (£25) applied with the Chisel Shader brush and Crease brush
Pure Lash Extender and Conditioner (£15)
Longest Lash Mascara in Black Ice (£26)
24k Gold Dust in Champagne (£13)Purepressed Blush in Copperwind (£21) applied with the Dome brush (£29)

Lip Definer in Terra-cotta (£11)

PureMoist Lipstick in Chloe (£17)

Pommisst Hydration Spritz to set (£22.50)

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Presenter: Mike Peel, Rogue Creations

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Topic:  3D Transfers and Direct Appliance Make up FX

SFX artist, Mike specialises in make -up and prosthetics, creatures, props, models and sets for the film, TV and entertainment industry.  Mike’s demo created the most lifelike wounds using a prosaide 3D transfer which was made in a silicone mould.  Prosaide (£10.95) is usually used as an adhesive to apply prosthetic pieces, but recently is being used to create small prosthetics and the edges can then be melted into the skin using IPA.  The prosaide is also used to adhere the transfer.  Once applied skin and prosthetic are sprayed with a sealer spray so that the make up applied doesn’t sink into the skin.  A liquid foundation was applied and once dried further artworked with Skin Illustrator (£83.75) and finally finished off with some Kensington Gore Blood (£7).

 

 

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Thanks to Lixi for supplying images for this feature

 

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