February 5th, 2014
With celebrity culture enmeshed in your clients’ day-to-day lives, it is A-List weddings that inspire their make-up choices. Warpaint quizzes bridal MUA Joyce Connor on her tips and tricks on the most photographed weddings in recent years.
Whether they bring in tear sheets, scrapbooks or show you their Pinterest boards, every bridal client will have an idea of what they want their make-up on their big day to look like. More than likely this inspiration will come from the celebrity weddings in the public eye. They might want to look classic like Kate, Duchess of Cambridge, or rock and roll like Kate Moss. Someone who knows about these demands and making sure they are adapted to suit the each client is award-winning bridal MUA Joyce Connor. Joyce set up Brides and Beauty in 2006 based in the South East and has built up her reputation over 18 years, thanks to her friendly and specialist service running masterclasses, workshops and one to one make-up lessons. Connor regular appears as a beauty expert for newspapers, magazines, at industry shows, on the radio and for BBC Berkshire and she ensures that she participates in regular professional training classes so that she is always ahead in the industry. Warpaint talked to Joyce to get her take on how to recreate the most requested VIP wedding make-up.
“The difference between bridal and editorial/fashion make-up is it has to be long lasting and look flawless all day. The key is application and layering so that the bride looks natural, but an enhanced version of herself.
“There are lots of great foundations on the market. You will need a few types to cater for the different skin types that brides will have. Not every bride has great skin so being able to create a great base is important. The main products that are needed in your kit are: primer, foundation (liquids and creams) and powders. Concealer and correctors (again liquids and creams). Powders in shades light, medium and dark. Contouring powders and illuminators but you can use foundations and concealers to do this too.
“Have a variety and range of foundations to suit all skin tones in your kit. One brand doesn’t suit all skin types or skin conditions. You don’t have to buy every single shade because you can mix and blend them, though you will need the correct undertones in yellow, pink, beige and apricot/orange.”
“Kate Middleton chose to do her own bridal make-up. Try to persuade brides to have a trial to show them what you can do. The wedding day can be quite nerve wracking, explain to them that having a professional make-up artist doing their make-up can be relaxing and take the stress away. Offer the brides a make-up lesson and advise on the best products to use. You can also take them make-up shopping as an additional service to choose the make-up for their chosen look. Kate likes quite a heavy black liner around her eyes. Using dark eyeliner can make the eyes look smaller so for brides that like this look I would soften the eyeliner under the lower lashes and use a pencil. If your bride has watery eyes or feels tearful you could use a waterproof pencil and add a powder shadow with an angled brush over the top.”
“Kim has a trademark look and loves a very heavily contoured base. This look doesn’t suit everyone. To create this look I would allow additional time for the contouring. Make sure you blend well and this look will definitely need a trial session. Kim’s look is all about clean lines and defined brows, while still creating a smoky eye. Choose lashes that aren’t plastic and look natural when applied. You can add individual knot free clusters or strip lashes to lengthen as well as mascara.”
Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate (£55) Viseart Eyeshadow Palette Neutral Basic No. 1 – Matte (£41.70) Illamasqua Sheer lipgloss in Artifice (£14.50) Laura Mercier Lipgloss in Bare Beige (£19.50) Ardell Lashes (Invisiband) Demi Wispies (£4.49)
“Make-up for darker skinned brides needs practice. Depending on the bride’s heritage, she may opt for a traditional look. Make sure to ask lots of questions. Find out how much make-up she normally wears. Some darker skins have pigmentation issues and may need up to four different shades of foundation to give a flawless look. Dark skins still need contouring and blending. Getting the base right is important so the bride doesn’t end up looking ashen after a few hours. Avoid using a jet black pencil for brows and opt for a dark brown or use eyebrow cake/ powder and a brush.”
“Kate Moss looks great with any make-up look. Here she wears a lovely bronzed eye. Beware of bronze eyeshadows being too golden on the skin. Blend it well and add a darker shade to the outer corners to give it a smoky effect. If the colours are too dark the eyes will appear smaller, so use a brown under the lower lashes and soften with a brush. This look is great with a peachy lip.”
“Gwen rocks the vintage bridal look, the classic black flicks with a red lip. Carry a few shades of red lip colour in your kit. You can mix them together to create other tones of red too. You need a blue red, a pinkish red and an orangey red to cover all skin tones. To make a strong lip colour last, fill the lip with a matching pencil colour, apply lipstick, powder over the first application, apply again and then lightly powder over the lipstick again. Finally, outline the lips with the lip pencil to stop the colour bleeding. As an alternative to black flicks, you can add a thicker line of regular eyeliner and a set of strip lashes and/or individual lashes to give the illusion of depth and darkness along the lash line. Use a gel or liquid liner for a flick and add powder eyeshadow over the top to stop it moving.”
“Millie has gone for a glowing natural look with drama on her lashes and lots of highlight above her cheekbones. This is the most requested bridal look, a natural flawless finish with the eyes being the main focus. This look is easy to achieve with the right foundation and lashes. Use a shimmer primer to add the glow to your foundation. Younger brides need a sheerer coverage so use lighter foundations or even tinted moisturisers. Add shimmer lipsticks in peach and pink tones to your kit to complement the simplicity of this natural bridal look. Highlight above the cheek area, the centre of the nose and lip philtrum (cupids bow). Add a light shimmer cream eye shadow to the inner corner of the eyes to add emphasis to the lashes and liner.”
Glamcor Glow (£30) Illamasqua Skin Base (£27) Make Up Atelier Paris Base Eclat (£18.50) OCC Tint – Tinted moisturiser (£17.99) Millie Mackintosh Lashes (£8.99) MAC Pressed Pigment in Angelic (£17.00) Kryolan Eye Shadow Iridescent in S10, Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Lipsticks (£24)