November 5th, 2013
With the release of fantasy films, elaborate TV shows and dramatic catwalk looks, more now than ever we need to know how to get this fabulous make-up off. Warpaint delves into the world of cleansers.
With film, TV, theatre and the catwalk all requiring different types of make-up, there’s a wealth of product out there specifically designed each application.
Visually stunning they may be, but prosthetics can be devilishly difficult to remove. Fragrance-free Ben Nye’s Remove It All (from £5.95) is a gentle yet effective make-up and adhesive remover. Made from isopropyl myristate, it makes short work of oil- and grease-based creams and is non-hazardous, so can be shipped around the world. Another heavy weight to consider is Strictly Professional Deep Cleansing Cream (£5.88) which is suitable for most skin types and particularly effective when thorough cleansing is needed after the application of heavier make-ups. Scar and wound prosthetics can be hard on sensitive skins and essential oil of lavender provides soothing anti-inflammatory and healing properties, whilst the rich properties of cocoa butter moisturise and protect and condition skin. Widely used for TV and photographic make-up removal too, they’re a great staple in any kit.
Cream products are another popular choice, especially for theatre, musical and dance make-up removal. In theatre, sensitive skins can become an issue due to heavy and thickly applied cosmetics and performances day after day. To avoid excessive wiping or eyes being pulled and dragged leaving skin red and sore, try Queen Cosmetics Theatrical Cleansing Cream (£23). It removes even the heaviest products including waterproof ones, thanks to the solid formula which melts on contact.
Body- and face-paint is another removal minefield that requires some serious cleansing capabilities. When bruises, sunburn and deathly pallid colours are needed, grease- and cream-based paints are called upon and are best removed with oil-, gel- and balm-based cleansers. Kryolan Derma Colour Cleansing Gel (£9.95) is specially developed for regular use. Its plant oil-enriched formula is gentle and you simply rinse off with water for a hydrated finish. Make Up For Ever Extreme Cleanser (£23) does exactly what it says on the tin. Free from mineral oils, this emulsion of dried oils deeply cleanses skin, removing even waterproof products and long lasting powders. When mixed with water it emulsifies, neutralising the chalky deposits in water, so skin is left soft, moisturised and fresh, rather than tight. For those who prefer a balm textured products, Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm (£39.50) is an indulgent yet supremely effective new beauty hero. Two years in the making, its sophisticated fusion of fragrant oils and waxes is designed to break down even micro-particles which can build up over time creating shading on the skin, a particular challenge with long-wear and silicone.
There is a real science behind cleansing the skin and the products that do this, specifically with heavy make-up and prosthetic use. Getting rid of particles of dirt, pollution and make-up is paramount if you want radiant and clear skin. World-renowned make-up artist Mary Greenwell agrees, “MUAs have always had skincare as part of their kit, but now the choice is amazing. From moisturisers and serums to BB Creams, there is no reason not to have skincare in your kit. Prepping is more important than ever before. Make-up applied to clean skin gives a much better finish.”
With so much choice are there particular brands Mary favours? “I like to use pre-soaked cloth towelettes and my favourite is Estee Lauder’s Take It Away Long Wear Make up Remover, which I have by my bed and use myself when travelling. The Japonesque Pro Make-up Artist Wipes are always in my kit, as they are so easy to use and remove a lot of make-up simply. I like to remove excess product with a toner that is alcohol-free and soothing to the skin.”
Cleansers are now becoming skincare treatments in their own right and the newest generation is the Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel (£32.50) which is designed to rebuild cell health through vital nutrients and target concerns with the best high tech natural ingredients. Pumpkin Enzyme deeply cleanses pores and thoroughly removes dullness, Omega 6-rich Starflower Oil nourishes whilst MSM, the most bio-available form of sulphur, helps soothe and detoxify. The Rose Chamomile fragrance and formula that changes from a gel to an oil texture when applied onto dry skin, makes this a pleasure to use.
Bioderma Sensibio H20 (£9.99) micellar water combined remover and cleanser is a favourite with MUAs and actors alike. Thorough yet gentle, it is free from soap, fragrance and alcohol and contains soothing cucumber extract. The irritation often caused by cleansing is minimised, and skin feels comfortable and clean, never tight or dry. With sensitivity an increasing issue due to the application, removal and reapplication, especially during fashion week, resulting in dry, irritable and stressed skin, targeted solutions are on offer. skyn Iceland Pure Cloud Cleanser (£22.50) is formulated with pure Icelandic glacial water to soften and hydrate, coconut oil extract and olive fruit oil to dissolve dirt and product, and oxygenated liposomes, butterfly bush and thyme extracts to restore natural balance and glow. To counteract breakouts, rosacea and sensitivity, hungarymud (£20) is rich in healing minerals and certified curative by the Hungarian National Health service. Apply this cleansing mask to regenerates skin cells, increase blood circulation and aid in the release of toxins.