September 2nd, 2013
Warpaint delves into the minds of the creative directors to pin point the A/W 13 make-up trends. From neon to midnight blue, cobalt and aquamarine, this autumn brings high reflective shine and intense colour to make eyes, lips and nails smoulder. High tension eyes and electrifying plump lips are inspired by the colours of the city while a variety of reflective and metallic finishes bring a new level of sophistication to multi-dimensional colour.
“When it comes to colour, there are no limits. I like to have freedom. Metallic make-up does that.” Tom Pecheux, Creative Make-up Director, Estée Lauder
Wherever you turn metallic palettes are everywhere, with ranges launching from Estee Lauder, Dior and Guerlain. The magic of iridescence and the intensity of a metallic hue lend themselves naturally to ultra sophistication and away from sundrenched summer. Eyes are dressed in shadow and light, whilst nails defy every colour in the spectrum. Indigo metallic shadows are showing their strength in the newly launched palettes.
Dior 5 Couleurs Mystic Metallics Couture Palette (£41) comes in two colour ways – Etoile (violet and silver) and Consellation (blue greens and browns) while Guerlain’s Ecrin 2 Couleurs Duo eye palettes (£30) gives two shades and textures, one of pure colour and the other of luminous veil to add metallic texture. Available in eight choices:
Two Rock: mysterious green and dazzling black; Two Stylish: deep blue and metallic grey; Two Extravagant: chocolate brown and zesty green; Two Gossip: stirring plum and Baroque gold; Two Candy: soft white and sparkling pink; Two Parisian: intense black and powder pink; Two Lovely: soft grey and aquamarine and Two Spicy: ebony brown and spicy coral.
Estee Lauder’s Pure Colour: The Metallics features the cool sheen of metal and the liquid light of lacquer. The new Pure Colour Instant Intense Eyeshadow Trios (£27) apply like molten metal, melting onto the lids for high-definition chromatic colour impact. Apply wet for a high metallic finish. Available in nine shades: Smoked Chrome, Arctic Zinc, Steel Lilacs, Platinum Petals, Gilded Chocolates, Amber Alloy, Beach Metals, Sterling Plums and Camo Chrome.
“Neon signs and streetlights blink green and blue, electrifying the concrete buildings, glass storefronts and asphalt pavements glimmered by rain. Seize on black asphalt, brown brick, steel grey, neon and graffiti colours to illuminate metropolises with her couture allure.” Lloyd Simmonds, Creative Director Make up YSL
Bright neons combat the dark days of winter, with ranges from the likes of Illamasqua and YSL, promoting a Woman of the City vibe. The neon green, chrome-plated steel, asphalt black and electric blue which all feature in YSL’s recently launched City Drive Arty Palette (£42) are inspired by the city’s pulsing lights and underground art movements. This theme of bold, electric colours featured heavily at the 2013-14 autumn/winter shows where neons, bright shadows, liners and mascara were worn in a wide variety of looks from cat flicks, to bold cobalt blue painted onto or smudged around the eyes.
Illamasqua’s new Paranormal range, inspired by unbridled kinetic energy, spectral light and transcendental emotional forces, fits the trend, offering vibrance and electricity with neon inspired palletes. Illamasqua Paranormal Palette (£34) is highly textured and with a unique water-resistant formulation its silky and allows effortless blending without loss of pigment. The shadows contain a spherical fine particle silicone, ensuring ease of use and long-wearing hold.
Sleek MakeUP’s legendary i-Divines palette in Acid delivers high-quality, super-pigmented matte eyeshadow in every neon under the sun. Bright, bold and in your face, at £7.99 it’s well worth the experiment.
WINE-HUED LIPS & A VELVET FINISH
“A glossy, dewy complexion seems outmoded now,” Peter Philips, former Creative Director, Chanel Makeup
While dewy skin has dominated the beauty scene for a long time, this season it’s all about a groomed, matte, velvet finish. The big takeaway from all autumn/winter shows is matte skin, so step away from foundations that glow and instead go for a pared-down face, lightly topped with a unifying powder. In editorial, a matte finish on the face works much better, with the glossy or dewy look is far less controllable and you can end up looking shiny in the wrong places.
Launching this week, Guerlain’s new Tenue De Perfection Timeproof Foundation (£37) in nine tints gives a velvety texture and boasts flawless skin for up to 16 hours, while Les Voilettes (£35) in three shades uses incredibly fine powders and pigments to create a mattifying veil in a translucent compact powder.
Clarins Skin Illusion Loose Powder Foundation (£28) is also a perfect candidate for this look. The ultra-fine and silky foundation powder in six shades melts into the skin resulting in a perfectly even, matte complexion, and skin that feels soft and comfortable.
A hot trend throughout 2013, wine-stained lips persevere into the next year with plum colours showing strongly in many collections. Berry stains have replaced matte lips, and a blended lip, rather than a strong lip line, brings the look firmly into the new season.
YSL’s Rouge Pur Couture in arty Prune Avenue (£25), Guerlain’s Le Rouge G De Guerlain Madame Batifole (£31) and Clarins’ Joli Rouge Lipstick in Royal Plum (£18) are finding their way into all the best make-up bags.
The Nocturnal Plum lip finishes the couture autumn look perfectly and suits the ‘woman of the night’ look that is on trend this year. Paired with a matte finish on the face, the look that was seen a great deal on the 2013 autumn/winter catwalks is achieved.